A few weeks after Paris-Brest-Paris, I went to Ireland to ride the Wild Atlantic Way, from Cork in the south to Donegal in the north. I didn’t keep a GPS track of every day. I was just bike touring and having a great time.
What follows is the ride as I posted it at the time.
Welcome to Ireland
“Sorry!! you cannot enter Ireland as you do not have a valid visa. Do you have a return ticket to leave.” My whole world stopped when I heard those words. I thought it was a misunderstanding and pointed at my Schengen visa. The border control officer repeated saying that Ireland is not a part of a Schengen nation and that Schengen visa is invalid. I told that it was my mistake and asked if he could help in anyway possible. He asked for the purpose of my visit and I described in detail about my upcoming adventure and my past adventures.
“Good luck on your adventure and I will be following your journey. Welcome to Ireland.”
From about to get deported to hearing “Welcome to Ireland” in 5 minutes. Can’t believe it happened but it did. Like Alchemist, “And, when you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it.” Irish hospitality has begun right from the border control.
I am going on an adventure
The Wild Atlantic Way, 2400 KM (1500 miles) along the western seaboard of the world’s longest defined coastal drive. Cork in the South to Donegal in the North. The Ireland I always wanted to see, soak in the world famous views, experience the culture and hospitality of the Irish and drink lots of Guinness and Murphy’s along the way while pushing my limits. It’s going to be one helluva journey.
Thanks so much Niamh Arnott-Foley, Stephen Foley, Ruth Dowling, María Rueda and all my friends in Ireland for helping me to get this far. You are the best!!
It has begun
The Darlings
She was absolutely adorable and loved watching her giggle every time I called her Darling. A lively conversation ensued with Catherine Darling and Reggie Darling (Darling was their last name. How cool is that).
“We are thinking about selling our car and getting a bike instead. We didn’t know a fancy road bike can ride that fast.”
Well, honestly, I was riding hell fast coz I was drafting your car.
“What the hell is that?”
I have been fighting crazy headwind all day and I saw your car and the speed limit on that road was 30kph, I decided to beat the wind by drafting your car all the way. If I let you guys go, then I would be back battling the brutal Atlantic head wind.
“Tell us more what you doing in Ireland over lunch. Please join us.”
Sure. (Why would I ever say No, though a part of me was yelling, modesty naresh, modesty. Ain’t nobody got time for that ;)
Irish hospitality and their warmth towards foreigners is simply amazing.
Mizen Head
Mizen head, Southern most point of Ireland.
Exactly a year before, this day, Dan and I embarked on a journey of a lifetime by beginning to hike Te Araroa. Then I was standing at Cape Reinga, the northern most point of NZ. Here I’m at Mizen Head, the southern most point of Ireland, on a 2400km adventure along the Wild Atlantic Way. So happy, blessed and content.
The wild side of the Wild Atlantic Way
A beautiful, wild and windy run around Valentia island and Bray head. The Atlantic winds were strong that I got airlifted and dropped just a few ft from the cliff edge. Had to lie down and crawl on four from the top until I could manage to stand up. Felt the Wild side of the Wild Atlantic Way.
Bad weather adds so much drama to the picture and scenery. Ireland is stunning no matter what weather it is.
Crazy weather yesterday in Kerry county with Insane cross winds that throw me into a ditch and heavy rains. My adventure boat ride to Skellig got cancelled. Was pretty bummed but I guess one cannot plan to see everything during an adventure. One more reason to come back to Ireland.
Before Sunrise, in Tralee
Classic “Before Sunrise” moment. A french girl studying in Ireland agreed to walk with an Indian boy and show her town Tralee. Read on… :)
“I don’t know anyone in Tralee and I’m staying here for the night. If you have no plans, we can catch up for a drink while you show me your town. What do you say?”
She giggled and said Yes.
After dropping my bike at the hostel, we caught up and went on a long walk. She took me on a beautiful walk along River Lee and the sunset was stunning. We were just walking around and getting to know one another. Array of topics like hobbies, interests, education, literature, love, and more. The attempt to understand someone is truly a magical thing and even more when you don’t speak the same language. Thanks to Google translate. 3 hours flew by.
It was close to midnight and started getting cold. It’s been a long day. I had logged 120km for the day and she was touring Dingle peninsula. We walked into a local Irish pub to grab a beer, sit down and continue our chat.
And then she orders a Coors Light…
A night on the Cliffs of Moher
Checked into my Billion Star Hotel for the night along the Wild Atlantic Way. Sleeping on top of a cliff in Cliffs of Moher. It was one of the highlights of my life, so it has its own page.
Ennis, Fanore and Croagh Patrick
A hostel with Hotel standards. That’s how awesome Rowan Tree Hostel is. The food at the Rowan Tree Cafe Bar is outstanding. Dining in that ball room made me feel like a king. I’ll forever remember Ennis because of your lovely hospitality. Thanks for all your recommendations on places to visit along the Wild Atlantic Way.
Sleeping on top of cliffs of Moher, a wonderful dip in Fanore beach and a barefoot climb to Croagh Patrick mountain, all has been an awesome experience. Thanks Brian O’Neill and team, Angela Pando San Emeterio and John Marshall, for treating me not just a guest but as your best friend and making my Wild Atlantic Way journey a memorable one. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Connemara
Riding in Connemara. Feels like heaven.
Roads go ever ever on, Over rock and under tree, By caves where never sun has shone, By streams that never find the sea; Over snow by winter sown, And through the merry flowers of June, Over grass and over stone, And under mountains in the moon.
— J.R.R. Tolkien
How can men feel themselves honoured by the humiliation of their fellow beings? A Mahatma Gandhi quote at the foot of the Cross, with a stunning view of Connemara.
Sliabh Liag
Today was the toughest day along the Wild Atlantic Way. Sliabh Liag cliffs and mountains in Donegal put me to the real test. Was beaten by sideways rain and heavy gust during the climb to the summit along One Man’s Pass. Heavy winds and zero visibility made me retreat from my summit attempt. Nature was kind enough to clear for a brief moment to show me this view during descent. Definitely felt the real power and force of the Wild Atlantic Way.
Malin Head
Wild Atlantic Way - Done. At Malin Head, Northern most point of Ireland, soaking in the view one last time. 2000+ km, 16 days. One helluva adventure. So many stories and epic memories. Time for a pint of Guinness for now.
Started as an Indian kiwi and finished as an Irish. Contemplating the journey and all the wonderful people I met along my way who helped me to get my goal. So sad to be leaving this beautiful country already.
See you soon
Yet another adventure has come to an end. Having to deal with saying goodbyes to all the wonderful people I have met along my way and knowing that I may never see some of them again is a hard fact that had to be dealt with. But you are who you meet and I am extremely blessed to have met some awesome people during my journey. As I always say, no good byes, just See You Soon.
Thanks Wild Atlantic Way, Tourism Ireland and everyone for a magnificent adventure. This was definitely a journey to and through the Ireland I had imagined. Thanks for your céad míle fáilte and Go raibh maith agaibh!
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