Pedaling 4 Freedom, Astoria to Washington

My pre-expedition anxiety and worries are at their peak.

How am I ever going to get everything packed in time? Will it all fit in the panniers? Do I have the gear for all kinds of weather? Do I… should I… would I…?

I have done way tougher expeditions. My India to Germany ride was full of uncertainties: visa issues, border crossings, language, and cultural differences. At least for Freedom Seat USA, I don’t have to deal with any of that. But still…

The fun part: I haven’t even seen the tandem yet. It’s being built by Co-Motion, one of the best tandem builders. I will pick it up at their store in Eugene, Oregon on Friday, put all my panniers and gear together, and take it for a test ride.

Getting to the start in Astoria, Oregon would have been a huge challenge if not for Amy Clark, who is coming all the way from Bend to take me and the bike to the start line. Thanks, Amy! You have no idea how much I appreciate you.

Freedom Seat USA is a big deal for me, but saying goodbye to my pregnant wife at the airport was tough. Maggie is amazing for supporting me on this mission, especially with a baby on the way. Going on adventures while single was one thing, but this is a whole new level. My goal is to complete Freedom Seat USA safely and successfully, and be back in time for the ultimate adventure: welcoming our baby into the world.

So much anticipation and excitement as I walked into the Co-Motion office. I picked up “Kindness” and she is a beauty. With only one day to go, the adventure is officially real and there’s no turning back now.

I was off to a rough start but still managed to finish strong. I took a nasty fall in slippery conditions and ended up with gnarly bruises. We started at 8 a.m. Pacific with friends flagging off the event.

It rained on and off all day. Some of the hills were steep and rough. Still, I finished Day 1 with 106 miles, in Portland, for an interview with KPTV.

Instead of waiting in Portland until 10 a.m. to fix the bike’s derailleur, I decided to ride in the lower gears to Gresham to get the bike checked. But the shop was not open. I called Co-Motion and they guided me through possible fixes. I experimented with their suggestions and it worked, for now. I didn’t hit the road until 11:30 a.m.

The climb to Government Camp was brutal.

Crazy how cold it is here. I got a flat on the steepest section of the climb, at the pass, where the winds were ripping and the temperatures frigid. It took almost 20 minutes to fix.

Some sections were impassable because of snow, and I had to find an alternate route. I made it to Maupin at 10:30 p.m. It was a long day.

I have been through insane moments, but last night was one of the worst. Rain, wind, steep hills, mud, flooded roads, mechanical issues, and everything in between.

It started in Maupin, where I was hoping to grab a meal before heading out. Unfortunately, the restaurant opened at 11 a.m., and I didn’t want to sit around, so I fueled up with a couple of energy bars and decided to press on to Shaniko, OR, for supplies.

The ride through the high desert section was stunningly beautiful, with vast open landscapes that seemed to stretch on forever. When I reached Shaniko, I stocked up on some bars at the convenience store and microwaved a couple of frozen burgers to keep me going. Feeling somewhat recharged, I hit the road again.

After passing through Antelope, the roads turned to gravel, marking the beginning of a series of grueling challenges. Around 1 p.m., it started to rain, and it didn’t let up for the rest of the day. It rained non-stop all day. The rain turned the gravel roads into a slippery, muddy mess. With no passenger to add weight to the rear wheel, I found myself struggling for traction, especially on the steep sections.

The mud was like peanut butter, clinging to my bike’s fork and tires and eventually hardening like concrete. I had to stop frequently to clear the build-up just to keep moving forward. At one point, the mud built up so much that my fork got completely stuck and the wheels wouldn’t move. It felt like my bike was transforming into a stationary exercise machine!

Some sections of the road were flooded knee-deep, adding another layer of difficulty to an already tough day. As if the terrain and weather weren’t enough, my timing chain kept dropping, and the front derailleur refused to shift to the big ring, making the ride even more frustrating.

Despite these mechanical issues and the cold, wet conditions, I pushed on, driven by the hope of reaching solid ground. The rain remained relentless, soaking me to the bone and turning every pedal stroke into a Herculean effort.

My phone wouldn’t work, and the course put me on a track that ended up on private property. I had to remove the panniers, throw them over to the other side of the barbed wire, and then lift the tandem over. I met some bikepackers later who said they had to do that too.

Finally, around 9 p.m., I hit clear asphalt. The relief and joy I felt in that moment were overwhelming, bringing tears to my eyes. It felt like the scene from The Shawshank Redemption when he crawls out of the shit pipe to freedom. Cold, wet, and exhausted, I pressed on, arriving at Spoken’n Hostel at 10:30 p.m. The host, Jalet, was incredibly kind, leaving out a big bowl of chicken spaghetti for me. After a long, hot shower and that comforting meal, I crashed into bed around midnight, utterly spent but deeply grateful for the warmth and shelter.

Day 3 was a true test of endurance and perseverance, but it also reminded me of the incredible kindness of strangers and the beauty of overcoming challenges on this journey. Onward to Day 4!

Somebody forgot to turn off the AC here in Oregon.

After the kick-ass climb out of Mitchell, which I thought would never end, came the sleet and snowstorm. Temps dropped to the low 30s and the snow was blowing sideways with high winds. It was brutal. It rained on and off the whole time, so I didn’t bother taking off the parka.

Stayed on the “Journey Through Time” Scenic Byway the whole time, and it was stunning. Really need a bike shop or a bike mechanic to take a look at the bike. Decided to stop at John Day, Oregon, to get hold of one, but it looks like I’ll have to MacGyver it with stuff from the hardware store.

Temps in the mid-teens and raining now. Glad I didn’t push to the next town. Kept the miles short, hoping to find a mechanic. Hope I can get the bike fixed, but either way, Ontario, Oregon, bound tomorrow.

Thanks for your continued support. I really appreciate you all.

Today was a day of incredible views and challenging climbs. The sight of the Strawberry Mountains from the covered wagon viewpoint in John Day Valley made the hard climb totally worth it. First summit of the day: Dixie Pass at 5,277 ft. After dropping about 1,500 ft of elevation, it was time to tackle Blue Mountain Pass at 5,109 ft.

On the way, I met Chris, a fellow bikepacker traveling from Boise to Astoria. We swapped route knowledge, and I headed east toward Unity. Also crossed into the Mountain Time Zone—goodbye to one hour 🙂

Next up was Eldorado Pass at 4,623 ft. The John Day Highway looks flat and wide open, but don’t be fooled—your legs will feel the relentless climb. It felt like a lonely stretch, reminiscent of the Nullarbor Plain in Australia, but with steady climbs instead of flat terrain.

The best part of the day was seeing the sign for a 6% downhill stretch for the next 5 miles—music to my ears! I rolled down to Willowcreek, where Maggie had called ahead to order some food as they closed at 9 p.m. The folks there were kind enough to leave my food on the patio. That cheeseburger and Dr Pepper were lifesavers, giving me the energy to push through the final 28 miles to Ontario, bringing today’s total to 136 miles.

Survived Day 5. New time zone and a new state. Bye-bye, Oregon—you kicked my butt! I’m sure Idaho will be just as challenging.

Not many riders on the tandem the last two days, which makes sense given how wild and remote this area is. But I did meet some interesting people and shared stories at small-town country stores. People have been incredibly generous with donations.

Day 6, off to a great start! The crank in my hand.

And then, this happened!

Considering myself very lucky. If this had happened last night, in the high desert in the middle of nowhere with no cell phone reception, it would have been terrible. Just 45 miles from Boise.

Danny, Nick, Tom, Tim and the crew at MCU Sports were my road angels who saved my day.

I have never had this happen before: the crank fell off the bike. I was crushed and thought my ride was over.

I called Maggie, who spoke to her friend Jasmen, who spoke to Leslie, who spoke to Danny at MCU Sports. Within a couple of hours, Nick and Tom, expert bike technicians, had fixed the crank and everything else that was causing issues. They set me up with extra bolts, just in case, and got me going by the end of the day.

I can continue with Freedom Seat USA thanks to Danny and his wonderful team. There have been reports of snow in the high country, so I’m changing the route through Idaho.

Met some really cool people. One of them is a BASE jumper who has over 8500 jumps.

It was a great day. Had a flat, but something’s going on with the tire; it’s not seating properly. Got to get it checked soon.

Please continue praying for this mission. I’ve been facing challenges ever since I hit the road (literally), and it’s been one thing or another every day. It’s the WHY and the mission that’s keeping me going.

Isn’t it crazy how something as tiny as a shard can completely derail your day? Had a flat tire because of a little piece of metal on the worst possible climb. The frustration, the sadness, and the anger all bubbled up as I struggled to fix it. It’s a reminder of how small things can sometimes bring out the worst in us. Here’s to hoping the rest of the day goes smoother!

Idaho Falls bound. 78 mi in the bag so far.

What a day! After my first flat tire, I ended up with two more. To top it off, while riding, someone threw their fountain drink at me—thankfully, it barely missed. It was definitely a rollercoaster of emotions, but there were bright spots too. Hailey at the Buffalo Wild Wings restaurant totally made my day with her kindness and positivity. Sometimes, it’s the little acts of kindness and love that keep us going.

Just got to stay positive and remember: one day at a time, and this too shall pass!

Thanks for all the kind words and support! You guys rock.

I woke up to find the rear tire completely flat. I must have picked something up on my way to the motel. I got new tires and tubes at Al’s Outdoor; thanks to Jason Oberhansley and his team for getting it all fixed.

I made it to Tetonia. Just as I was entering Driggs, I saw Zane and his girlfriend Nicole on the side of the road. He said Dusty King was in Victor, about 8 miles down the road. I told him I didn’t have 8 miles in me and that I was done for the day. He kindly offered me his dad’s camper for the night, and we all went for Thai food.

The day turned out amazing for how it started. I just had to remember that it’s all going to be OK.

Zane Lance joined me on a 10 mi ride to Victor. I got to meet Dusty and had a lovely breakfast. It was so good to meet my friend after a long time.

Just entered Wyoming, and it’s a kick-ass welcome: a 10% grade to Teton Pass, then on to Jackson. Hoping to cross the Continental Divide today! We’ll see.

Thanks for your wonderful support.

Wyoming welcomed me with a kick-ass climb to Teton Pass. It’s going to be fun!

It started with a kick-ass climb to Teton Pass. A 10% grade the whole way up to the summit. On a tandem, solo, that was rough. Thanks for bringing the helmet, Dusty!

The ride down to Jackson and the Teton scenic drive was stunning. A family I met at McD’s in Jackson later saw me riding the tandem, and she joined me!

Finished the ride in Moran and camped at Hatchet Campground in Teton Natl Forest!

Wish me luck.

7.5 mi to the Continental Divide pass. So cold and windy up here.

Kick ass climb with kick ass views. No bears or moose yet :(

Made it through the Continental Divide! The highest point of Freedom Seat.

Got over the Rockies just before noon. The descent was brutal, with frigid temps, rain, and crosswinds. Was bundled up for the long ride downhill to Dubois.

Took a break at a rest stop where I met John and Aki. They were on a road trip with their dog buddy. They were so kind and offered water, Gatorade, snacks, etc. They were gonna stay in Riverton for the night. I told them I’d see them there. We turned out to be neighbors in Motel 6.

Was at the tail end of the storm and escaped getting drenched, but the puddles and spray from the traffic got me and Kindness very dirty. By the time I finished rinsing the mud off the bike, John invited me for dinner. Akiyo made some delicious salad and offered lots of sweet treats.

Very sore legs, but my heart and tummy are full.

It feels lovely! Very lonely. Finally encountered the rough winds of Wyoming that everyone was warning me about. Hard day battling headwinds. Long desolate stretches of nothing.

Miss the mountain rains so much already!

The kindness and hospitality of people on this expedition have been extremely humbling and heartwarming.

I told Shaggy about my ride to protect children from sex trafficking. He refused to charge me for the sandwich.

Thanks, Shaggy and team, for your kindness. Really appreciate you guys.

Battled headwinds all day. Made my peace with it, put my head down, and kept biking all day. The terrain was a bit forgiving, though.

Please continue with your support and prayers. Really appreciate all your kind words.

Entering the good life. Started Day 14 and entered my 4th state of Freedom Seat, Nebraska!

Barely escaped getting pelted by golf ball-sized hail last night. Luckily, I was at the tail end of it. When I got to the motel at 10 p.m., the manager said he expected to see me with lots of bruises. This morning, the hail damage was evident, with lots of dents on the cars.

The crankshaft was loosening up again, and no matter how much I secured it, it wouldn’t stay put. Every 5 miles, I had to stop and tighten it. And I’m 300 miles away from the closest bike shop!

Picked up a big 8mm Allen and a tiny metal pipe that I could use for extra leverage to tighten the bolt.

The incredible people I meet along the way and their kindness keep me going. Bill, who had lost his voice to cancer, had the biggest heart. When I stopped at their café for water, his wife Hailey told him what I was up to. They suggested I sit down and eat, fixing me an awesome burger and fries. When I asked for the check, it said PAID. I looked at Bill, and he just winked and gave me a big hug.

Can’t wait to finish and send them all a postcard to thank them for their love and support.

Also, I entered the Central Time Zone.

Today’s miles were incredibly challenging, with relentless easterly headwinds that made every mile feel like a battle. There were no easy downhill stretches or helpful tailwinds. The elevation profile looks like it’s all downhill, but gravity doesn’t work here. Every single mile was earned.

An unexpected detour through Long Pine State Park added to the day’s difficulty. Thankfully, the kindness of construction workers spared me a 40-mile detour, a bright spot in a tough day and a reminder of the good in people.

Despite the struggles and setbacks, I’m grateful for every mile I could ride. These challenges only strengthen my commitment to this cause and remind me of the resilience needed to overcome the scourge of human trafficking.

It was pure coincidence that I had bumped into Tim the day before, who was bikepacking from DC to Seattle. He suggested that I contact Scott in Norfolk, who had helped him with his bike.

Another day of easterlies and high gusts. Along the way I met Shawna, who noticed the missing stoker and wanted to hear the story. A cyclist recovering from hip surgery, she was eager to get back on the bike herself, and she generously gave me $20 for the cause. While we were standing on the shoulder, another truck pulled over to check that we were OK. Small-town people are the kindest!

By the afternoon the gusts had picked up, and the wobble in the tandem’s crank was getting worse. I wasn’t sure I could make it all the way to Omaha. That’s when I called Scott.

He turned out to be the real MacGyver. He didn’t have the exact parts I needed, but he picked up some bolts and lug nuts and got the bike moving again. When I offered to pay, he refused, gave me a big hug, and said, “Get it done, you got this.” The kindest gesture.

80 miles in the bank.

“When you are done, you are all set to go. Your check is already taken care of,” the waitress told me with a warm smile.

“By who?” I asked, surprised and touched.

“By Ralf, a local farmer who is a regular here at Paula’s Cafe. He already left, but he wanted to wish you good luck on your journey.”

In that moment I felt deeply moved. I had come to see the beautiful landscapes of this country, but what truly captured my heart was the love and hospitality of kind Americans like Ralf. Another employee gave me a $50 bill, and a couple of other farmers gave $50. I walked in for a quick bite and to fill my water bottle, and left with my tummy and heart full.

The only bike mechanic with the parts I needed was 70 miles away, and Missouri’s steep rolling hills and headwinds slowed me terribly. I reached an intersection where the sign said “MoDOT maintenance ends,” and that was the end of the ride for the day. The road ahead was dirt and gravel, and with a broken crank the only way through would have been pushing the bike for miles.

That’s when Angie showed up like a true road angel. Maggie had reached out to her for help, and Angie drove 60 miles to take me to that mechanic, in Shawnee, Kansas, before he left town for the weekend. Mark at Precision Tandems had all the parts and worked on the bike until 10:30 p.m. He was impressed with the makeshift repairs I had done to keep the bike moving.

By the time the repairs were done, it was 10:45 p.m. The only place open that late was Wendy’s. The door was shut, but they were taking drive-thru orders. I knocked on the window and asked the manager if I could order, since I was on a bicycle. He agreed.

I was standing at the drive-thru, looking at the menu, when a car pulled up. While the gentleman waited for the speaker, he asked what I was up to. I told him about my journey. He was impressed and asked what I was thinking of eating. I told him a Number 9, the ghost pepper ranch sandwich.

When the Wendy’s rep was ready, my road angel ordered his food and a Number 9. He looked at me and said he would love to get me my dinner.

We introduced ourselves while waiting for the food. His name was Jared. He had heard a lot about sex trafficking and believed it was an important cause to fight for, and he promised his support. He handed me my sandwich and water, posed for a selfie, and said goodbye.

I rode to a motel and escaped a torrential thunderstorm. Despite the day’s challenges, the kindness of strangers like Ralf, Susan, Angie, Mark and Jared turned it into a day of hope and inspiration.

Good to be in Missouri, my 7th state on the Transcon.

I made it to Jefferson City. It was so great to see Maggie after nearly a month since I left home for Oregon. This mission wouldn’t have been possible without her support. I also got to share the adventure with my best friends, who came all the way to Jeff City to ride with me. Thanks, Tina, Dale and Rose, for your relentless support. You are the best.

I crossed the Missouri River and joined the Katy Trail. Riding along it, I heard a sound that was new to me: the incessant singing of the cicadas. Their loud, rhythmic chorus filled the air. Every pedal stroke feels like a step deeper into the heart of America.

Friends in St. Louis: I’ll be at 4 Hands Brewing Company downtown from 5 to 7 p.m. Would love to catch up with you before making my way to DC tomorrow.

As I reflect on my journey so far, I am overwhelmed with gratitude and humility. This adventure is not just about the miles or the destinations; it’s about the incredible people who have made it unforgettable.

Riding through Missouri was a testament to the power of family and friendship. From the bustling cities to the quiet scenic roads, I was met with smiles, hugs and words of encouragement from loved ones. They took time out of their busy lives, driving for hours just to spend a few precious moments with me. Some joined me on the tandem, others brought food and water, and all of them left me feeling deeply humbled and incredibly lucky.

To my family and friends: your presence has been the wind at my back. Your willingness to rearrange your schedules, travel long distances and share this journey with me is a gift I will cherish forever. You have turned this challenge into a celebration of connection and community.

I must have gotten weak and that’s why I’m slow, I thought. Then I realized that somewhere between Illinois and Indiana, I had crossed into the Eastern Time Zone. So much for starting early.

Crossing the Wabash River into Indiana, my 9th state. Heat, humidity and hills made it a rough day, especially the heat. Kelsey’s parents, Dave and Debbie, hosted me in Brownstown. A lovely dinner and fun conversation made a beautiful ending to Day 26.

Into Ohio, my 10th state, the heart of it all.

Crystal joined me and pedaled with me in the morning. She is such a huge inspiration and a great friend. Randy and Meg joined me for a few miles. Tim, who had read my story in the NEMO Equipment newsletter, found me and rode along to keep me company.

I love Ohio’s bike network: Cincinnati to Columbus to Cleveland, all on dedicated, well-maintained bike paths. A professor of molecular genetics out on a ride accompanied me for 8 miles on the Olentangy Trail, and we had a great conversation. Carlos is from Argentina and teaches at Ohio State University.

We’ve hit the 3,000-mile mark on my 30th day riding across the USA on a tandem bike for the Pedaling 4 Freedom mission! It’s been an incredible journey so far, filled with highs, lows, and everything in between.

Just crossed into West Virginia and Pennsylvania, making it 12 states covered in this transcontinental adventure. West Virginia didn’t hold back with its brutally steep hills – my legs are still feeling the burn! And Pennsylvania? Afternoon lightning and thunderstorms that seemed to go on forever. 🌩️

The high temperatures, relentless humidity, and those killer hills tested every ounce of my strength. But then, I arrived at my host Geetika’s place. Her family’s hospitality was beyond amazing. They welcomed me with a delicious home-cooked meal of daal chaawal (rice and lentil curry) that instantly made all the day’s struggles disappear. The great conversation over masala chai made time fly by and left me feeling refreshed and recharged.

We are so close to the finish line now, hoping to wrap it all up by Sunday – fingers crossed! 🤞

Thank you all for your incredible support throughout this journey. Your messages and encouragement mean the world to me and keep me pedaling forward every day.

Here’s to the final stretch! 💪

300 miles to go.

210 miles to go. Over the Eastern Continental Divide today.

I made it over the Eastern Continental Divide and into Maryland, my 13th state. A fun ride along the Great Allegheny Passage, and then the C&O Canal towpath all the way to DC.

The hottest day of my Transcon. My phone shut down twice as it overheated, and I had to dive into the Potomac River to cool down.

Riding the C&O has been a treat, and a very contemplative journey.

Sarah got on the bike with me. So lucky to have awesome friends join me on this mission to end slavery.

Lincoln Memorial. It is done.

I have no words to thank you all for your generous donations, your support, your kind words of encouragement, and most of all for pedaling with me. Thanks, Keith, for pedaling with me and helping me finish strong.

I may have been solo and unsupported, but this was possible because of all your support. Thank you!

Back home, I had an amazing lunch in Fenton, Missouri, with Lazarus Lake and Sandra. We had both been crossing the USA, me from west to east on a tandem and him from east to west on foot. Though our paths never crossed, our experiences were so in sync. Stories full of kindness.

Months of planning, staring at maps, training, preparing and executing… and then suddenly, it’s over. Coming down from a big expedition has left me feeling aimless these past few weeks. Post-expedition depression is real. Sometimes the hardest part of a journey comes once it’s over.

The routine on the open road has a sense of adventure and a huge element of surprise. You never know what you’re going to see around the next bend, who you’re going to meet, or what challenge awaits. Back home, I find myself struggling to keep the routines I once cherished.

My run streak for 2024 ended on May 16, when I stepped on a plane to Oregon. Now getting out the door for a run feels forced. I want to bike commute, but I give myself excuses: no good bike lock, no pannier rack, it’s too hot for a backpack. It’s funny how the mind works. I went through the same thing soon after I rode from India to Germany.

But I’m not spending all day on the couch, don’t worry. I’m still running and biking, just not as much as I’d like. This re-entry into normal life is a process, and I’m practicing being mindful and patient.

Mindful that this too is just a phase, and this too shall pass. Patient, as I await the arrival of our baby. Now there’s an adventure! We are really excited to welcome this little one to planet Earth. My biggest adventure yet, without a doubt. One journey has ended, and another is about to begin.

Off to the second session of birthing class now.

A month later

Traveling anywhere from 10 to 15 miles per hour through the heart of the USA on a tandem bike, I had the freedom to take any turn and stop whenever I wanted. Total freedom.

Biking across the USA, I saw things that are impossible to experience by car or plane, and I believe people are genuinely intrigued by those who embark on such slow and human-powered journeys. As Werner Herzog said, “The world reveals itself to those who travel on foot.” In my case, by bicycle.

Can’t believe it’s been a month since completing my Transcon across the US in DC. As I look back at all the photos, I am filled with gratitude for the experiences, the chance encounters, and the power of human kindness. Though the expedition has ended, its impact continues to shape my life.

Thank you to everyone who shared this journey with me. I appreciate you all so much. This journey was possible because of you. Life got busy after the trip, especially with a baby on the way, and I didn’t get to post any updates. Over the coming days, I will be catching up and sharing photos and stories. Stay tuned…